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A local's guide

Noto and the Val di Noto, slowly.

The Val di Noto is the south-east corner of Sicily where eight honey-stone towns were rebuilt in unified Baroque after the 1693 earthquake — a UNESCO World Heritage landscape of staircases, palazzi and golden squares. From Villa Serenita it is the closest of our day trips: just under an hour by car, easy enough to leave after a slow morning by the pool.

The Sicilian coast near Noto at golden hour, with limestone cliffs above the sea

The town

An evening passeggiata along Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

Arrive in Noto an hour before sunset, when the limestone catches the light and turns the whole town the colour of warm bread. Walk the length of Corso Vittorio Emanuele past the Cathedral of San Nicolò, the Palazzo Ducezio and the Chiesa di San Carlo — climb the bell tower of San Carlo for the best view of the rooftops at dusk. Stop at Caffè Sicilia for a granita di mandorla; it is, quietly, one of the most famous pastry shops in Italy.

The beach

Calamosche, Vendicari and the wild south-east coast.

Inside the Vendicari nature reserve, Calamosche is a 200-metre crescent of white sand between two limestone headlands — no road access, a twenty-minute walk through dunes and fennel, no concessions, no loungers. Bring water and a hat. Further north, Marzamemi is the fishing village to circle back to at lunchtime for tuna and a glass of Nero d'Avola in a shaded courtyard.

The country

Modica, Ragusa Ibla and the almond hills above.

The Val di Noto stretches inland through almond and carob country to Modica — famous for its cold-worked chocolate — and Ragusa Ibla, perhaps the most photogenic of the eight Baroque towns. A whole day, easily: lunch in Ragusa, a long afternoon in Modica, and home in time for an aperitivo on the terrace.

The table

Where to eat — quietly, and well.

We send guests to Crocifisso in Noto for refined Sicilian cooking, to Manna for a more contemporary tasting menu, and to the small trattorie of Marzamemi for grilled fish straight off the boats. Tables in August are scarce — let the concierge know a few days ahead and we'll arrange them.

From the villa

Villa Serenita as your base for the Val di Noto.

Villa Serenita sits in the quiet countryside near Santo Pietro, well placed for the entire south-east: Noto and the beaches of Vendicari within an hour, Modica and Ragusa Ibla a little further inland, and the wineries of the Cerasuolo di Vittoria appellation on the way back. We arrange private drivers for the longer days, and a chef at the villa for the evenings you'd rather not move.

Plan a stay around Noto